Greece: The wine dark sea
The next leg of my journey took me from coast to coast. I traveled from the mountains of Delphi to Patras then south to Kalamata and finally to the island of Santorini. It was definitely a building up of excitement, with Santorini being perhaps my favorite part of the entire trip. But, first was Patras.
“I walked around Patras a bit. It’s an interesting city. Being that close to water was great. The city had a beach feel to it. The city itself seemed old, in the same run down way Athens did. There was a lot of graffiti and cool shops in the city center….That was the best part of Patras I think, for me, the shopping. It was where I felt the most comfortable browsing.” - Journal Entry, 8.14.24
Patras, Greece
I walked the rocky beaches, ate fried fish, and went shopping - it was the perfect beginning to my ocean holiday. After a few days in Patras, well-fed and throughly relaxed, I took a car south to Kalamata. My hotel was actually just outside of Kalamata in Messini, but a local bus connected the cities. I picked this area for two reasons: I loved the idea of visiting a city that the olive was named for, and it was a convenient stopover on my way to Santorini.
As I mentioned at the start of my Greek adventure, it was the hottest month of the year. And my hotel in Messini definitely tested my ability to endure the heat, as the air conditioning didn’t really work. I was only there for three days, so I focused my energy and time on beaches, where I could be hot on purpose. While Kalamata was the more popular spot, I preferred the beach near Messini. It was a bit more secluded and less crowded. I got a spot at an all-day beach bar, where I could order food and drink right from my chaise.
From Kalamata, I flew to Thessaloniki and then on to Santorini. Domestic flights in another country are always interesting. And I say interesting to mean unpredictable. My first flight was an hour and fifteen minutes delayed. I was certain that I would miss my connecting flight, but that one was delayed too. So, it worked out. I arrived in Santorini around sunset and to my hotel just after dark. Aside from the bright moon overhead, I had yet to experience the full breadth of Santorini and its beauty.
💙 of Santorini
I have said before that I have never met a beach I didn’t like. I love them all, and yet they are all so vastly different. Do the waves soften into the coast or crash violently against the cliffs? Does the water blend from white to turquoise and then out deep to blue? Do the clouds cling to the sky above or does the sun beam through? Do the sands slip easily through my toes or do the rocks massage the bottoms of my feet? As all places formed of energy, Santorini has its own personality - steeped in deep azure, embodying the hues of the ocean and the bright sky beyond.
THE HIGHLIGHTS FOR ME WERE:
Built in the sixth century, this medieval castle is built on the highest point in Patras, affording it a great panoramic view of the city.
Skaros Rock, Santorini
A steep and isolated headland, Skaros Rock juts out into the Aegean Sea. There is a trail leading from the village of Imerovigli, past the Agios Georgios Chapel and out to the rock. The walk was steep at many points, but the view was absolutely worth it.
I stumbled across this brewery by accident. I had been walking a lot this day, having visited the “heart of Santorini.” I found this nearby on my map, as I was looking for a place for lunch. While the food was not amazing, the beer was delicious. And I love a beer flight at a brewery!
This Greek, Catholic Church is emblematic of the color and architecture of the entire island. The startling blue dome and brilliant white walls match the vibrance of the Aegean Sea. One of many churches in Santorini, this one serves of an example of one at its finest, and the view is phenomenal.
“The climb up the mountain was awful.
But, I made it. Got a coffee and sat for a bit.
Hiked up further to ancient site.
People who hike in flip flops, I hate them.”
-Journal Entry, 8.22.24
I walked from my hotel on the eastern side of Santorini to the archeological site of Ancient Thera on the Mesa Vuono Mountain. The walk, or should I say hike, from the base of the mountain to the summit was a test of my physical and mental endurance. Countless switchbacks had me rethinking my choices that day. But, I made it to the top, successfully. Before entering the site itself, I took a short coffee break and congratulated myself on a job well done.
Ancient Thera, Santorini
The ruins of this ancient city were well-preserved, but what was more startling to me was the what it felt like. When out in the open air, not bracketed by stone or wall, the wind whipped furiously across the mountain. I feared loosing my own footing amid the force. Much as I felt atop the Acropolis of Athens, the sheer might of nature had me believing in Zeus and the Olympians.
Wine tasting at Gavalas Winery
Pool Days
Each day I was in Santorini, I would walk and walk and walk, branching out from my hotel in different directions. I would go about six or seven miles, and once my curiosity was sated, I would take an Uber back to my hotel. The afternoon’s were for poolside relaxation, tanning, and quiet contemplation. My hotel had a lovely pool, and my room had a small balcony overlooking it.
WHAT I WAS WATCHING: Plan :D YouTube Videos, Miss Day and Night, So I Married the Anti-Fan, Love Next Door, Fight for My Own Way
WHAT I WAS READING: Ichor, Horkos, and Delphi by Trish D.W.
I would like to say that I just stumbled across this series by accident, but no, I was indeed searching for a book involving Greek mythology. It seemed appropriate, given where I was, and that’s how I found this fantasy series. And, yes, I have since read the fourth and fifth books.
