Japan: a tale of four cities
After a week in Tokyo and several peaceful days in Hakone, I was on to Osaka. Not only is Osaka an amazing city, but it was also a central hub for me to visit three others: Nara, Kobe, and Kyoto. According to my preparatory research, each city had its own distinct appeal. Osaka is known for its street food, Nara for its deer, Kobe for its beef, and Kyoto for its history. I was determined to experience all four within a week.
I took a bus from my hotel in Hakone and then a Shinkansen on to Osaka. It is still slightly mind blowing to think about how quickly those trains are moving when you are on them. I have since been on dozens and dozens of trains, and the difference in speeds is still indiscernible to me. Meaning the ride is unbelievably smooth. I arrived in Osaka in the mid-afternoon, checked in to my tiny hotel, and headed out for a walk. When in doubt of where to wander, I follow a river. I walked along the Tosahori river, found a beautiful rose garden, and ate street food for dinner. It was a lovely introduction to Osaka. I spent the next full day in Osaka and the subsequent three days on day trips.
THE HIGHLIGHTS FOR ME WERE:
Nakanoshima Rose Garden
“Once I had crossed the river, I came across a rose garden. It was very crowded, as I realized it was Saturday. And the people in Japan don’t really do sun, so there were umbrellas everywhere. As I looked out over the scene, I thought of My Fair Lady. It brought to mind English gardens and afternoon teas. Speaking of which, I booked flights to London for October! But I get ahead of myself again.” - Journal Entry, 5.18.24
EGGS (This is more of an overall highlight for me.)
“…as I had seen enough Japanese food thus far to realize that they did indeed LOVE eggs. I don’t think I did love eggs until I had them here. That sounds a little silly to say, but it is true. I liked a fried egg, but that was pretty much it. And really I don’t consider the versatility of eggs either.” - Journal Entry, 5.18.24
“I think the rolled omelet is now my favorite egg, next is soft boiled, lastly is fried. Where do you put mayonnaise on a list of favorite egg preparations? Does it make a list? Is it on a condiment list? I wonder.“ - Journal Entry, 5.18.24
Display in Osaka Museum of History
I didn’t go inside of Osaka Castle, although there was an option to do so. The day was rainy, and while I didn’t mind walking around in it, the crowds lined up to enter the castle deterred me as much as the price of admission. Instead I went to the Osaka Museum of History, which was many stories of exhibits about the city and the castle. There were not, however, many English translations on the museum descriptions. I didn’t mind using Google Translate though, if a certain item interested me.
Nara Park
Nara Park
“Amidst the trees, with deer peering out from every corner, it felt as if you were wandering into a different world. If there weren’t tourists everywhere, you might convince yourself that you were indeed traveling to a new world.” - Journal Entry, 5.20.24
“I don’t know what I expected, but nothing prepared me for how many deer there were….There were people selling rice crackers to feed to the deer. I bought some for 200 yen and then regretted it! The deer know about the crackers and they expected to be fed. Before I had gotten my pack of crackers open, there were three deer surrounding me. One nipped at me, biting my shirt and my leg. I basically threw crackers at them to get out of the fray. I had one cracker let. I gave it to a smaller, mild tempered deer who bowed to me before and after receiving their treat. The deer had been trained to bow. It was both endearing and sad. They were animals after all, but they had been turned into pets for tourists….After my interaction, I decided to appreciate the deer from afar.” - Journal Entry, 5.20.24
Kasugatashia Temple
Kasugatashia Temple
“I came to the temple, Kasugatashia; it was shrouded in the forest. Moisture and moss overgrown on stone, massive cedars laying claim to the history of the earth beneath it. I paid extra to go further into it. I’m glad I did. The path led you through to different places of worship, but what struck me the most was the lanterns. There were so many, some black, some gold, and they all had different designs on them, including deer. I wonder how long deer have been tied to this place.” - 5.20.24
Kofuku-ji Temple
“There were about 7 or 8 Buddha sculptures insides, one was huge, almost reaching the ceiling. You weren’t allowed to take photographs, making it seem all the more precious and sacred. There were a lot of students visiting in their uniforms. This temple was very different, as I said before. It was almost as if this was a royal temple, for a select few and the other was for the gods and goddesses of nature and those that worshipped them.” - Journal Entry, 5.20.24
Nunobiki Waterfalls
Kobe Nunobiki Herb Gardens & Ropeway / Nunobiki Waterfalls
Kyoto Imperial Palace / Nijo Castle
“I arrived in Kyoto, walked out of the station, and was quickly crossing a bridge over a beautiful river, mountains on either side. It was as if the beauty of Hakone met with a capital city. I was heading to the Imperial Palace, but I figured a quick stroll by the river was in order. As I approached the path, I could see butterflies abounding amid the flowers. I was instantly transported to nature. Kyoto had an energy that seemed slower than Osaka, not in a lazy way, but in a sure way, born from history, from knowledge, from pride. It wasn’t flashy in any way, the grace of the city speaking for itself. Granted I only spent one day, but I could feel a shift in Kyoto. It was the embodiment of culture.” - Journal Entry, 5.22.24
Kyoto Imperial Palace
“The walls surround the palace with impressive gates at strategic locations. I imagine all was planned purposefully. It also was so open, given that it was enclosed. I could picture members of the court, or the Japanese equivalent, walking around, going about their normal daily routines. It was grand without being ostentatious; there was a lot of exposed wood. The best part was the palace gardens, as I could see lovers meeting there in secret.” - Journal Entry, 5.22.24
Kyoto Imperial Gardens
“After the palace, I walked to Nijo Castle, which reminded me of the palace in the way it was spread out over a large area. It also had a well organized pathway that guided you through the tour. This was not free, but again the gardens were the highlight. They were like hidden oases. Do Japanese believe in fairies? I feel like I can picture fairies here.” - Journal Entry, 5.22.24
My five days in Osaka were over far too quickly, but I was left with an extreme sense of satisfaction. I enjoyed every place I visited that week and could have spent more time in each. Osaka held much of the culinary and cosmopolitan appeal of Tokyo, but with an air of refinement. Nara felt like stepping into another world - a world where the lines of spiritual and natural beauty blur. Kobe spoke of movement and modernity with the bustling and weather-worn comfort of a port city. And Kyoto stood tall amongst them all - regal, yet humble - the quiet mountain that would never bow to the wind.
WHAT I WAS READING: Heat of the Everflame and Burn of the Everflame by Penn Cole
WHAT I WAS WATCHING: Delicious in Dungeon, Japanese Baseball
