Denmark: Once Upon a Time
After spending a week in the wintry wonderland of Norway, I was headed back to Denmark, more specifically Odense. I flew from Bergen back to Copenhagen and then took a train on to Odense. I arrived and checked in to my hotel before quickly stepping out to scout out another grocery store for that evening’s dinner. It was a meal of beer and cheese, with chocolate-covered marzipan and licorice-coated dates for dessert. An odd combination I must admit, but I let my heart lead me.
I had chosen Odense because it is the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen. As a fan of fairy tales and a well-told story above all, I love to see where stories originate - where the author comes from, where they draw inspiration, and how they are remembered. With that said, I went to Odense with the sole purpose of visiting the museum there dedicated to the famous Hans.
Kronborg Castle
I would move next to Helsingor to view the famous Kronborg Castle - the setting of Shakespeare’s Hamlet. Finally, my journey would end where it began - Copenhagen, for one last castle view, a visit to the home of Carlsberg, and a taste of the famous brew on tap.
THE HIGHLIGHTS FOR ME WERE:
I am a big fan of a museum visit that includes an audio tour, and this one was exceptional. I entered the museum, purchased my ticket, was given a pair of headphones, and directed how to use them. Throughout the museum circuit, there were spots labeled on the floor or wall, and when approached, the audio guide would engage. At once both informational and whimsical, each exhibit drew me in, much like a reader into the pages of a good book. Artistic and interactive, I paused and lingered for a bit longer before leaving each room and moving to the next.
The Nightingale
My favorite section was a large gallery space displaying Andersen’s stories as art, in particular The Nightingale. Set in the middle of a circular room stood a large golden cage and inside a gilded mechanical bird, glittering with multicolored gems. I turned the large metal knob on the side, winding up the contraption and making the bird sing. I also enjoyed the areas dedicated to The Snow Queen and The Ugly Duckling, as both showcased paper cutting, an artistic talent of Andersen’s.
The small house where Anderson was born is just a short walk from the museum and entry is included in the price of admission. I ambled in that direction, taking a slight detour into the Eventyrhaven, or the Fairy Tale Garden near Odense Cathedral. It is almost as if the entire city of Odense serves as an homage to the famed poet.
Click HERE to visit the museum with me!
Teatime at A.C. Perch’s Thehandel
An English-style tea shop in Denmark, I was instantly drawn to the building, recognizing the name. One of my favorite YouTubers, Plan :D, often brews loose leaf tea, and I have seen her use their tea on more than one occasion. I walked in immediately to find the small shop full, every table taken. I pulled up their website and made a reservation for the next day, which just so happened to be Thanksgiving (in the U.S. that is). I went back the next day to enjoy my afternoon tea, choosing a champagne option and a spiced tea recommended to me by the staff.
I enjoyed the champagne and the food immensely. I was a bit disappointed in the tea, as I felt it a bit weak given the description I was given. It is in moments like these that I remind myself to go with my instinct, as I had indeed chosen two other tea options before the staff member came to take my order. But, how people do love to ask if you have been there before. Honestly, my favorite part of the entire meal was the fresh currants decorating the plates. I had never had them fresh before, only dried.
Immortalized as Elsinore in Shakespeare’s Hamlet, Kronborg Castle was the reason I went to Helsingor. My literary motivations run deep and true - etched upon my heart as words upon a page over and over again. I have read a lot of Shakespeare in my time as a student, first in high school, focusing on the approachable plays - Romeo & Juliet and A Midsummer’s Night Dream, moving on to tougher stuff as an undergraduate - Hamlet, Macbeth, King Lear, and the like. As a graduate student, I delved into Shakespeare with renewed purpose and focus, specifically an ecological one. I reread the plays I thought I understood and those I had yet to enjoy, like The Winter’s Tale and The Tempest.
Kronborg Castle
I share these memories to give you a glimpse of myself and what visiting Elsinore meant to me, how I walked around the castle not alone but with the younger versions of myself. Kronborg was decked out for the Christmas holidays. The castle courtyard was transformed into a Jul Market, serving spiced wine, hot cocoa, and festive sweets. I walked through the King and Queen’s Chambers and the Ballroom, before climbing down to the Casemates - the underground tunnels beneath the castle. I ended my visit with a final walk around the castle and a view of The Sound.
To see more from my castle visit, click HERE.
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art and Sculpture Park
Located between Copenhagen and Helsingor, I was drawn to this museum in particular because of its name. Anytime I find a tangible connection between my life at home and my life when traveling, I grab on to it, delighting in something familiar. Although this museum has nothing at all to do with the state of Louisiana, where I live, but is instead named after the three different wives of the museum’s founder - all named Louise.
A train ride and a short walk brought me to the doors of the museum - the entrance unassuming and covered in ivy, more reminiscent of a stately home than a modern art museum. I began my visit with the sculpture garden, accessed by heavy, glass sliding doors lining the first hall of exhibitions. Over fifty sculptures are woven into the fabric of the outdoor landscape - some instantly visible as created art, some hidden and natural.
Back inside the museum, I walked through three featured exhibitions, “Living Structures,” “Ocean,” and “Louisiana’s Time.” The first focused on where architecture and science intersect, highlighting companies using biology and biochemistry to impact their work. It was a fascinating exhibit - art at a molecular level, and modern because of its innovation. The second brought you under the sea, diving into the science, mythology, and turbulent history of the ocean deep. The final exhibition showcased classic and contemporary pieces from the museum’s collection.
Frederiksberg Slot
I returned to Copenhagen and spent one final day walking around the city. I wandered around this Baroque castle and explored its gardens before heading to the Carlsberg City District. I stopped into Madklubben Home of Carlsberg for lunch and a beer flight. I spent the rest of the afternoon doing some last minute souvenir shopping, visiting Flying Tiger Copenhagen and the Lego Store. I was at the end of my trip and preparing for a long day of travel. While time seems to fly by on the way, it does indeed drag on the return.
WHAT I WAS READING: To Know Miss May by Deborah M. Hathaway
WHAT I WAS WATCHING: Christmas as Usual, Once Upon a Crime, Zero Chill, Our Little Secret, Mr. Malcolm’s List, Hot Frosty, Oh My Venus
