Norway: Holiday Hygge
I boarded a train in Oslo at noon and arrived in Bergen around seven. I walked a short distance to my hotel and checked in before quickly heading out again to buy some groceries for the night. I emerged onto the narrow cobblestone streets to find it snowing; it was magical. I bundled myself against the cold with a smile and continued to the store. I’m not sure whether it is because of my culinary background or just my overall appreciation of food, but I love surveying markets when I travel.
Recognizing food is easy if you have spent most of your life researching it, and if you can’t quite figure out exactly what something is, that is when Google Translate comes in to assist. Both a cultural experience and an economical one, buying groceries in another country helps keep down my overall cost of food. I aim to dine out only once a day, with my other meals comprised of store-bought provisions or “quick” meals. I feel as though it turns what can normally be a tourist experience into a temporary local one.
I had already tried the infamous brunost, or brown cheese, in Oslo and had brought the remainder with me to Bergen. The flavor of brunost most reminds me of dulce de leche, caramelized sweetened condensed milk, and the texture is soft, yet firm enough to slice like a provolone. I enjoyed it for breakfast as part of European-style plate - cured meat, cheese, boiled egg, and crackers.
But more important than breakfast, I needed to acquire beer for my first night in Bergen. I explored the store like one who enjoys it does - taking my time, reading labels, and going up and own each aisle. I ended in the beer aisle and chose two cans. I went to check-out only for the cashier to tell me I couldn’t buy alcohol after eight. It was five minutes past. I was aghast and tempted to disavow the rest of my cart in protest, but I am not a child. I left without the beer I had been mentally savoring for the better part of the evening and headed back to my hotel to settle in for the night.
My accommodations, or should I say the heater in my room, had other plans. The weather in Bergen was quite cold, at the end of November the temperature was in the twenties Fahrenheit. The small space heater in my room would not turn on, and on top of that, the refrigerator in the kitchen was warm. This hotel was self check-in, with no front desk service available, so I called the service number provided. Within an hour, I was moved to another room, with working appliances and a small balcony. It was quite the upgrade! I snuggled among the down pillows and comforter and fell fast asleep.
I awoke to more snow, watching it fall from the glass doors of the balcony. I fixed a coffee and ate breakfast in bed, not yet ready to leave its warm embrace. I wasn’t certain if I would be able to stay in this new room for the duration of my stay, so I waited part of the morning to be sure. Once I was given confirmation that I wouldn’t have to switch rooms again, I prepared for my day.
I was only in Bergen for a few days, so I had to make the most of my time. I had a fjord cruise booked for my second day, so for day one, I chose to head up to Fløyen Mountain. And my final day would consist of leisure and shopping - for souvenirs and Christmas presents. I was tickled at the idea of giving my family gifts from Bergen.
MY TRAVEL ADVICE:
If you plan to take the train from Oslo to Bergen, or vice versa, be mindful of the time of year you go, as this will affect daylight hours. I didn’t put much thought into how early the sun would set in late November. Once in Oslo, I was marveling at three o’clock sunsets, not just because of how stunning they were, but how unanticipated.
I booked my train ticket through the app Vy and was mindful to choose a window set, and even chose a preferred front section of the train for more room. When presented with the two departure times, I opted for noon figuring I would enjoy the extra time to check out of my hotel and purchase snacks for the journey. In hindsight, this was a mistake.
Sunset from the Train
The journey by train from Oslo to Bergen with the many stops along the way would take about seven hours. Given the limited daylight hours, that meant I could only enjoy the scenic views for the first half of the expedition. So, if you plan to embark on a similar railway tour, be mindful of your timing.
TWO RESTAURANTS OF NOTE FOR ME:
Christmas Tray
Hagelin’s Favorites
THE HIGHLIGHTS FOR ME WERE:
The Fløibanen is a funicular railway, or cable car, that takes you up to the top of the mountain. When I stepped out onto Fløyen, the morning sky was a haze of white, a mask of snow laden clouds and fog. Being unaccustomed to snow, I was awash in childlike wonder, and I bounded off into the trees to explore. As I circled back to the overlook of Bergen, the sun emerged from the clouds - bright and shining on the snow-covered landscape below. It felt to me like Christmas morning in Whoville - a scene from a picture book, magical and dreamlike. With the snow abated and the sun taking precedent, I continued on to Trollskogen, a part of the forest filled with gnome and troll sculptures.
Click HERE to follow me up the mountain.
I booked this cruise several weeks in advance, so as to secure a spot. This half day boat tour departs from Bergen and wonders through the Mostraumen straights exploring the Norwegian fjords. It was what I most excited about when visiting Bergen, seeing the glacial fjords. On the morning of the cruise, I headed to the departure site still excited, but a little apprehensive; a light rain coated me as I waited for the boat to arrive. The rain continued the entire day, a stinging cold sort of rain that comes mere degrees before snow. The sun neglected to make an appearance this day.
Waterfall among the Fjords
And yet, I spent the majority of the ride outside on the boat’s deck, taking in the views from either side, determined to make the most of the rainy day. I was quite cold and wet afterwards, but it was still a wonderful experience. I would like to say that more planning or foresight might have helped me to avoid the rain, but that’s just not how weather works. And how you deal with nature’s inconveniences reveals a lot about the kind of traveler you are - you can be disappointed, but still make happy memories. Be adaptable. Make a plan, but be prepared for it to change.
A UNESCO World Heritage site, Bryggen is a collection of buildings and houses that makes up the old harbor - a remnant of its longstanding historic importance as a port city and center of trade. The colorful wooden buildings line the wharf, and it is here where I began my Christmas shopping. Weaving down narrow alleyways, finding hidden galleries and shops, it was less about buying things and more about discovering them.
Bryggen
Bergenhus Fortress / Rosenkrantz Tower
I had read about the Danish concept of hygge - coziness and warm, comfort and happiness, and it was in Bergen that I really began to experience it fully. I embraced the cold when I was in it and reveled in the calming warmth of being inside. I sipped festive ales and watched Christmas movies, several Christmas movies. If a word can embody a season, and a season a word, for me hygge is holiday. And what a lovely holiday it was!
WHAT I WAS WATCHING: Meet Me Next Christmas, The Merry Gentlemen, Waffles & Mochi Holiday Special, I Hate Christmas Season 2
