Norway: Not on Display
About a year or so before traveling to Denmark, my dad sent me a link to an article about a scenic train journey across Norway to the city of Bergen. Someday we’ll do that, we said. At the time, I remember thinking the idea was just that - an idea I would hold on to, a future to dream about but never fully see. So when I began planning my trip to Denmark and Norway, the first thing I booked, right after my flight, was a train ticket for the Bergensbanen.
Copenhagen Airport Terminal
After spending almost a week in Copenhagen, I flew to Oslo, where in a few days time I would board the train to Bergen - the Norwegian segment of my trip. I had some downtime in the airport on the way to Oslo, enjoying some smørrebrød and a Tuborg Christmas brew. A short flight later, I arrived in Norway and then took an express train from the airport to Oslo Central Station. I walked about fifteen minutes from the station to my hotel, located in Sentrum, Oslo’s downtown area.
MY TRAVEL ADVICE:
I was only in Oslo for three days, but for two of those, I purchased an Oslo City Pass. Much like the Copenhagen Card, this pass includes free entry to over thirty museums and attractions, as well as public transportation. And, again, it was well worth the expense and encouraged me to visit some places I wouldn’t have originally considered.
The National Theatre
THE HIGHLIGHTS FOR ME WERE:
It was about ten degrees colder in Oslo than it had been in Copenhagen, so just when I thought I had gotten used to the cold, it got worse. That would not keep me from exploring though, so I bundled up and began my day. I started by walking to The Royal Palace, passing the National Theatre along the way. Much like visiting Buckingham Palace, I just got a good look at the exterior and snapped some photos. You can indeed visit the inside of the Palace, but it wasn’t a priority for me. I was only in Oslo for two days after all.
The Royal Palace
Number one on my list of places to visit while in Oslo! The Munch Museum houses the largest collection of art by Edvard Munch, but also showcases exhibitions from other artists. And for me, I ended up enjoying the temporary exhibits more than the permanent ones. But, I get ahead of myself. I arrived at the museum and walked in giddy with excitement. I would see The Scream in person - the original of the same print I hung on my bedroom wall as a teenager. That, however, was not to be. Upon entering, I was greeted with a sign notifying patrons that The Scream was currently not on display.
The Munch Museum in Oslo
While that was initially disappointing, I forged ahead determined to still enjoy my visit. The museum was huge, after all, and Edvard Munch had much more art to see - five floors worth in fact. I decided to experience the museum from the bottom up, starting at the lobby, working my way through each floor, ending at the top. The first exhibit I walked through was Vanessa Baird’s “Go Down With Me,” which was quite affecting, albeit in a slightly devastating way.
I then began the journey through Edvard Munch’s work - the infinite and the monumental, the interactive shadows, and the contextual horizons. Another temporary exhibit at the time involved a Norwegian rapper named Arif. After viewing his film, Arif’s Journey Explained, I walked into a studio-like space. I could listen to Arif’s music through headphones attached to the wall or write him a short note on a postcard. As I sat and wrote out a short poem, the artist himself came into the studio. It was a very cohesive experience, combining art and music and me.
Akershus Fortress
After leaving the Munch Museum, I stopped for lunch at Koie Ramen before continuing to explore the city. I headed next to the Akershus Fortress, a medieval castle on the Oslofjord. I walked around the fortress until the late afternoon sunset. There are guided tours of the castle available, but I was content to just admire from the outside.
This was a museum I would not have even thought to visit without the Oslo Pass. Located in City Hall Square, the Nobel Peace Center focuses on telling stories of peace - through art exhibitions and the history of the peace prize. The rotating exhibit at the time was “The Echo Chamber” by artist Erik Johannson.
My favorite thing to do in Oslo! The sculpture park and the adjacent museum are masterful displays of Gustav Vigeland’s work and his artistic process. I walked first through the park, drawn to the center and the pinnacle of the sculptor’s career - the Monolith. Over fifty feet tall, the tower of carved bodies is surrounded by small sculptural groupings and set atop a raised dais of stairs. I circled the plateau, climbed the stairs, and stared up at the apex, glowing from the afternoon sun.
The Vigeland Museum
I continued on through the park to the museum. The museum has many permanent collections, telling the story of Vigeland’s life and the evolution of his style. One of the largest exhibits showcased the plaster originals and miniature models of the sculptures in the park. I really enjoyed visiting the park first and then delving deeper at the museum. I highly recommend doing it in that order.
To explore the park and museum with me, click HERE.
What I used to think museums had to be. I am not a huge fan of modern art. That much I have learned from traveling, and on this trip in particular, I visited many museums. And while my partialities range from Greek sculptures and Renaissance paintings to graffiti and pop art, I still am hesitant when I see something labeled “modern.” I almost feel as if the label limits the art, forcing it to be pretentious and requiring explanation. So, it was with reticence that I entered this museum. And in many ways it was exactly what I expected - large, white gallery spaces empty save for the smattering of art. The featured exhibition at the time was “Between Rivers.” And while I did enjoy it, what I enjoyed more was the introspection that came from my time at this museum.
Fairy Lights in Ekebergparken
Before leaving Oslo, I had one more stop on my agenda and that was Ekerbergparken, a sculpture park just outside the city. I woke early and took a tram to the park. I hiked a short distance into the park and watched the sun rise over the Oslofjord. Before it got too bright though, I headed out in search of the “Fairy Lights,” a multicolor light installation deep in the forest. I stayed in the park as long as I could to explore, before heading back to my hotel to check out. It was time to leave Oslo, and I had a train to catch.
WHAT I WAS WATCHING: Spice Up Your Love, Five Blind Dates, When the Phone Rings
