Portugal: Loss, Waterways, & Azulejo Tiles
In my last year as a chef, the company I worked for was putting great effort into renovating and opening a new restaurant - a Portuguese restaurant. Each week, I observed the recipe development, ordered ingredients as directed, and marveled at the ambition of their new endeavor. It was only when, months later, as the launch date approached that I felt thoroughly insulted. Because it was no longer just space and ingredients the new restaurant needed, it was employees - ones I hired, trained, and mentored.
Was this such a great insult? No, not in and of itself. It was all part of the same company, and I didn’t own these people who worked for me. It was a tiny splinter of straw on my tired, beaten back. I would be lying if I said it was the only reason I left my job, but it was definitely the reason I chose Portugal - a fleeting thought, a fixation on a country and a cuisine that meant something to the company I had come to despise. I would travel there, having survived my career, and say look at me.
Don’t worry though, I didn’t spend an entire month in Portugal just to be petty. I merely considered a place I never would have otherwise, a country I wouldn’t have looked at twice on a map.
Fountain of the Lions
And once I began to research Portugal in earnest - its cities, its culture, its food, I chose it for me and not for the ghosts of my past. And so I started to build my itinerary, allowing myself not just three, but four weeks to explore. An entire month in another country, almost as if I was living there, not just visiting - a temporary local, not a tourist.
I have this growing theory about the definition of “home” and what it means to call a place so. Questions of birth and upbringing, of career and belonging, of family and stability. Can you be at home in a place you have never been? Can you feel lost in a place you have always been? Yes to both, for me at least. Traveling opened up a vast expanse in me - the possibility of making a “home” in myself, carrying it with me, and finding places around the world that feel like me.
I reached out to family members who had traveled to Portugal, perusing their highlights, and choosing my own adventure. I would begin in Porto and travel down the length of the country, stopping in Coimbra, Fatima, and Lisbon, before ending in Carvoeiro. I chose Porto merely because I found a good deal on flights, and that is where I always start when planning a trip. Once the flights were booked, I began to fill in the rest. And just like that, I had a trip planned.
Chapel of Souls
A month before I was scheduled to leave, my friend Mike passed away suddenly and unexpectedly. It was a harsh reminder of life’s transience, and a cloud of grief descended into my life. The cloud lingered and clung to me and my friends. We tried to comfort each other, while also confronting our own sadness. It was a hard time. I would like to say it got better, but it got so much worse. Two days before I was scheduled to leave, my closest friend Scott left the world, and a part of me shattered.
I struggled with thoughts of canceling my trip to grieve, but it follows you no matter where you go. And in my head I just kept replaying a conversation we had months before, when Scott asked me, “So, where ya going next Bergen?” I told him Portugal. This was the last trip I would be able to tell him about, and oh how I hated that. Even now, I still hear him in my head every time I begin to plan a trip, that question on a loop in my mind, “Where ya going next?” I like to hear his voice again if only in my memory.
“I thought a lot about Scott…. I can travel across the world, but I can’t run from grief. I wasn’t necessarily trying to, but it is interesting. People are people all over the world. And somehow certain people just mean more to you. As much as people are all the same; they are so wholly unique. And can never be replaced. And this is why we grieve loss because we know that what made that one person special was exclusive to them. That to try and replicate their aura is impossible. That maybe you will be lucky and meet someone similar, but never, ever the same.” - Journal Entry, 2.15.25
TRAVEL ADVICE:
Don’t Stress Over Lost Luggage.
I flew from New Orleans to Atlanta, then on to Amsterdam before finally arriving in Porto. I almost missed my connecting flight in Amsterdam, rushing through the airport to my gate. Luckily, I made it onto my flight, but sadly, my checked bag did not. I arrived in Porto with naught but my carry-on. I waited to fill out a form for my lost luggage. They assured me the bag would arrive the next day and would be delivered to my AirBnB. Oddly enough, this was only the second time in my life that I had an issue with my luggage, and a first for an international trip. Having traveled quite a bit, more than average I would say, I was a little surprised it had only just happened.
So, although inconvenient, there were some upsides to my lost luggage. For one, I took the metro from the airport to Drago Stadium without having to carry my bag up and down stairs and on and off the subway. It was such a strange feeling of lightness, but also wrongness, to head out into a new city with basically nothing. But, the other positive spin came later, when I was shopping for provisions. I planned to stay in Porto for an entire week, and I was staying in a studio apartment with a kitchen. I could stock up a bit. So, I went shopping, buying food and wine for my welcome dinner, toiletries, and some clothes that have been adapted into my capsule wardrobe.
My bag was delivered the next morning, as promised, and so, I could commence my trip, for real this time. I had already experienced something new and different. This definitively falls into the “Be Adaptable” category of travel advice, but also remember that stuff is just that. You can always buy new stuff.
THE HIGHLIGHTS FOR ME WERE:
The Air BnB I rented in Porto had a small balcony with a view of Drago Stadium. I chose the location not because I am a football fan, but because it was centrally located and near a subway station. But just because I am not a fan, doesn’t mean I don’t enjoy a good spectacle. The night I arrived, there was a match, and the energy flowing from the open-air stadium was electric. I opened the doors to the balcony, watching and listening from across the street, feeling as if Porto was welcoming me to the neighborhood. I put together a Portuguese meat and cheese board, opened a bottle of wine, and enjoyed the show. I don’t think I could have planned a better first night in Portugal.
Parque de São Roque
I began my first day in Porto like I do many trips, with a lot of walking. I set off with many destinations in mind, clusters of landmarks all pinned in my Google Maps, and a vague desire for coffee and a pastry. I walked first by the infamous Drago Stadium, quiet and empty in the light of day and continued on, heading to this park. Soft introductions to a city, parks are generally calm and relaxing, like dipping one’s toe into a new pool testing for comfort. I enjoy visiting parks and green spaces when I travel. The Parque de São Roque offers a great view of the city itself, winding pathways, impressive trees and foliage, but my favorite part was the labyrinth, or hedge maze. I felt as though I was entering a realm of fantasy, transporting me to another place in time.
Labirinto do Parque de São Roque
Praça da Trindade / Porto City Hall
The Avenida dos Aliados, or Avenue of Allies, is described as the central heart of Porto. Beginning with the Praça da Trindade and continuing on past Porto City Hall and the imposing figure of its clock tower. As I was walking through this city center, I didn’t know where first to look - to the intricately lain tiles below my feet, the ornately carved buildings surrounding me, or perhaps to the hundreds of birds flying above it all. I was at a loss for where to look, as it was all beautiful - this beating heart of a city.
Avenue of Allies
Porto Cathedral
One of the oldest monuments in the city, the building of Porto Cathedral began in the twelfth century, and the cathedral as it stands today was completed six hundred years later. I didn’t go inside the church, instead admiring the Romanesque and Baroque architecture from the outside. In the cathedral’s courtyard stands the Pillory of Porto, a twisted stone column once used for public punishment. That unpleasant history aside, the striking pillar is just interesting to look at and photograph. Sweeping out from the cathedral and its courtyard of medieval history was the most spectacular view of the city and the Douro River. From the high vantage point, I could appreciate the sea of terracotta roof tiles below, varying shades of orange undulating like a sunset on the horizon.
Pont Luis I Bridge (Douro River)
Designed by Teophile Seyrig, a student of Gustave Eiffel, this double-deck bridge built of metal harkens the sleek lines of the Eiffel Tower, a monument I have yet to view with my own eyes. Crossing the Douro River, the bridge connects Porto to the Vila Nova de Gaia. The bridge is impressive and considered iconic by most. I think I was impressed merely because of its association with Gustave Eiffel. And as far as bridges go, none would outshine the suspension bridge I planned to see a few days later.
Pont Luis I Bridge
Igreja de Santo Ildefonso
I saw many churches throughout my visit in Portugal. Because of the predominance of Catholic faith in the country, churches are prevalent and many, and yet they each had a uniqueness to them. This church, in particular, had a facade unlike any I had ever seen. Built in the eighteenth century, the church is covered in roughly 11,000 azulejo tiles. These blue and white tiles are emblematic of the country itself and its culture. It wouldn’t be the only church I would see covered in tiles, but being the first, it was the most memorable. And from that moment on, I began to seek out unique tiles wherever I went.
Igreja de Santo Ildefonso
Restaurant - Thamel
I discovered while in England that I really enjoy Nepalese food, momos in particular. And the concept of “dumplings” exist throughout Asia by many, many different names.
Livraria Lello
This historic bookstore is rumored to have served as inspiration for J. K. Rowling in her writing of the Harry Potter series. With its mix of Art Nouveau and Neo-Gothic architecture, I could see the similarities to the shops in Diagon Alley. The two stories are lined with wooden bookshelves and decorated with intricate carvings. The floors are connected by a large red staircase, winding up the middle of the room and splitting off to either side. The store is not very large, but the space is open. Books line the walls from floor to ceiling. Because this bookstore has become a tourist attraction, I did have to pay to get in, reserving a time slot in advance. I wanted so badly to buy a book as a souvenir, but I wanted it to be representative of where I was. I ended up purchasing a book of Portuguese poetry.
Paiva Walkways and 516 Arouca Bridge
In planning my trips, I use many online forums to research where to go, sometimes just pouring over Google Maps. I also mine social media for information, and this was a destination I learned of courtesy of Instagram. This was the first destination I pinned on the map when planning my trip to Portugal. And I don’t think I would have found it on my own. This famous walkway along the Paiva River connects to the 516 Arouca Bridge, the third longest pedestrian suspension bridge in the world.
516 Arouca Bridge
I initially thought I could hire a car to drive me to and from the bridge and walkways, but ultimately, I opted to book a day tour with a guide. That ended up being a great choice! The group, if you can call it that, was myself, the guide, and a young couple from Barcelona. Along the way, we stopped at Casa dos Doces Conventuais de Arouca - Autêntica for some pastries.
“The pastries were all so interesting. We tried like 8 different kinds. They all had some short of almond or nut component - walnut and chestnut. And three in particular were very different than anything I had ever had, so I love that.” - Journal Entry, 2.17.25
We then continued on to the Paiva Walkways, where the guide left us to explore on our own. Part of the walkways were inaccessible, having being recently destroyed by a forest fire, but we walked the length that was available.
“The walk itself was beautiful, following the Paiva River on the right with sweeping mountainous views on the other side. The sounds of rushing water, chirping birds, and natural stillness were only interrupted by the sound of my footsteps on the walkway.” - Journal Entry, 2.17.25
After the walk, we stopped for lunch before headed to the main attraction of the day - the suspension bridge. And what an amazing highlight it was! We took our time crossing and recrossing the bridge, 516 meters each way. It was not at all crowded, as it was considered off-season in February. I was grateful for it, as I couldn’t imagine the bridge full of people. For a time, the bridge was the longest of its kind in the world, but it had since been overtaken by two newer bridges in Europe.
Click HERE to cross the bridge with me!
On my last day in Porto, I crossed the Pont Luis I Bridge over to Vila Nova de Gaia and spent the day visiting museums, namely those in the World of Wine Porto.
Located in Vila Nova de Gaia, World of Wine Porto is a modern cultural district, which includes several museums. The first WOW museum I visited, “The Chocolate Story” takes you through the entire process of making chocolate. From the history of the bean, the harvesting and fermentation, and the difference in regional flavor profiles, the museum takes an exhaustive look at all things chocolate. Some of my favorite parts of the tour included the guided chocolate tasting, the aroma and sensory journey, and the Vinte Vinte Factory.
Portugal is a country steeped in wine culture, proudly so, and “The Wine Experience” delves deeply into the undertaking that is wine production. From the soil to the grape to the bottle, the exhibition explains the lengthy and somewhat complicated process with interactive and visually striking displays. The museum has an entirely separate section dedicated to the wines of Portugal, highlighting the regional varietals. My favorite area was the hall of portraits, wherein the different wine grapes were personified as ancient deities. The tour ended with a wine tasting, which notably included a port from Taylor’s - one of the oldest port houses located just around the corner.
Perhaps the most fun of all the museum experiences offered in WOW Porto, “The Pink Palace Experience” was like walking through a fun house with wine. There were five different sampling areas, where I stopped and filled my commemorative glass. I never really considered rosé to be a wine of much distinction, so to taste a variety and learn of the wine’s history definitely changed my view for the better. Most of the rooms were designed as elaborate photo backdrops, some even with props. It was bubbly and whimsical just like rosé, and I throughly enjoyed it!
Restaurant - KungFu Niuniu
Drawn in by the neon lights and anime decor, I chose this Chinese restaurant for my last night in Porto. I ordered greedily, Peking Duck and Dan Dan Noodles. They were both delicious!
WHAT I WAS WATCHING: My Roommate is Gumiho, Shooting Stars
